With my passion for food and travel growing deeper and deeper alongside the beckoning of the London summer, a summer trip to Europe was due. Picking a destination was easy for me.
The Amalfi Coast in Italy had always been at the top of my bucket list. How can it not? With its beauty that lies in photographs and its ability to sweep you away with the whispers of words like homecooking, gelato, smoked mozzarella, Limoncello, Prosecco and passion.
Numerous internet sites delve into the detail of the Amalfi Coast and the flood of suggestions can be quite overwhelming. So in standing true to the authentic simplicity with which Italian chefs seem to cook their organic ingredients; peruse your way through my tips for visiting this unforgettable gem.
Where to Stay:
How to get about:
What to do:
Where and what to eat (Now this is the best part!):
Basing ourselves in Positano, we managed to discover the best of the best – keeping it local and within budget. Although Michelin star restaurants are all over, we decided to save the extra Euro’s for our favourite locals and their recognition of our preferred tastes and habits. TOP TIPS: Order Prosecco, marvel at your enjoyment of the continual consumption of the Italian green olives (a staple snack serving); and take note that what is described in the menu is exactly what is presented before you – with no added accompaniment. If you would like something more than the core ingredient, remember to have a look at the sides offered and order this alongside your dish.
While ordering a bottle of Prosecco and snacking on the moreish breadsticks and freshly baked baguettes, start off with the smoked mozzarella in lemon leaves. This dish became a quick favourite of mine and a regular order at any restaurant. Porcini mushrooms seem to be their specialty – so for the mains and meat lovers, go for the fillet with porcini mushrooms and if you are craving the perfect homemade al dente pasta – order the Linguine with porcini mushrooms.
A restaurant surrounded by patisserie deserts and pastries, delicatessen offerings and an outside terrace covered in lemon and olive trees sets the perfect late afternoon setting. Sipping on a glass of chardonnay, try the homemade melanzane to give into your ever increasing Italian cravings. Savour a slice of their Torta Zagara – an indulgent cake with chocolate and candied orange or give into more gluttony and sweeten the tooth with their variety of profiteroles. Take note: The longer you stay, continue to order and enjoy their food; the more snacks and free samples they bring.
After making a reservation, you will be collected from your hotel and driven up the long and winding road into the hills of Montepertuso Positano. La Tagliata and its three terraces open up the most breath-taking view before you. You are seated and greeted by the family head chef while a set menu of endless organic Italian meals and local wine is served – course by course. Prepare to feast in multiple stages and feel as though you have been transported into a family education of ‘Mama’s authentic Italian meals’.
If you want to sit on the pavement, look out at the sea and all of a sudden have a five man Italian band serenade you with classic songs (all the while selling new dvds) – this is the place to go. The staff are happy to offer you their favourite wines at the price of the wine you selected and just as you bite into your starter of a ricotta stuffed courgette flower, strums of guitars reign through the air. Delving into a need for Positano’s highly advertised wealth of seafood, this is the place to devour their spread of perfectly grilled prawns as a main course.
Set slightly higher up the road, this pizza restaurant marries your idea of organic ingredients and Italian pizza simplicity (homemade base and a limitation in their toppings i.e. never over-flow your pizza base).
Probably the best experience of being in Positano! Wait at the Positano pier and look out for the boat with the big red fish (free collections start from 11:00-13:00 and returns run from 16:00-18:00). A scantily clad Italian who always seems to hitch one side of his boardshorts high up into his hips will take you to and from Da Adolfo. This family run ‘shack like’ seafood restaurant rests in a private cove with sun loungers and a menu changing daily based on the catch of the day. To be safe – make a reservation and get yourself on the boat at about midday. Arrive and marvel at the waiters who run up and down the stairs between the chef’s mad shouts and the hot stone pebbled floor. Bread is never ending and the house wine is cheap, delicious and good for the soul.
There is nothing on the menu I would not recommend. Try everything! From marinated sardines, to a seafood salad of octopus and local fish, to the fish barbeque which is a chargrilled and perfectly moist whole fish served before you to pick and portion out as you desire. However, make sure that out of all the options, you do not forget their specialty of mussels in a garlic and tomato sauce. They are simply too good to be true – and we ordered them twice. When you have eaten all you can, settle onto a lounger, have a swim in the crystal clear water and find yourself going to and from the bar to quench your thirst.
Amalfi City:
Located in front of the ferry and bus stops as you arrive, take yourself to Bar Flavio and sample their ice cream flavours.
The true creaminess and authenticity of their coffee and pistachio flavour was beyond words.
Ravello:
Marvel at the rich and famous as you walk into this luxury boutique hotel, out onto the terrace and sample one of their carefully manicured martini cocktails. Free snacks too!
Atrani:
Out of the hustle and bustle of the crowds and traffic, make your way down to the edge of the Atrani beach and set yourself up at Le Arcate. Perfectly cooked pastas make any choice hard. However, I would recommend the macaroni with mussels – the sensation of simple flavours and passionate cooking were no match for any other dish.
I rest my case.
In striving to be simple and to the point, it seems the Amalfi Coast has too much to describe. However, with what to do, how to do it and especially where to eat, this destination is an exceptional sample of holiday perfection and one I will definitely be going back to. My last bit of advice is simple – always remember to round off any meal with a taste of the restaurant’s Limoncello. It would be sacrilege not to try.