How to do the Amalfi Coast the

How to do the Amalfi Coast the right way!

With my passion for food and travel growing deeper and deeper alongside the beckoning of the London summer, a summer trip to Europe was due. Picking a destination was easy for me.

How to do the Amalfi Coast the

The Amalfi Coast in Italy had always been at the top of my bucket list. How can it not? With its beauty that lies in photographs and its ability to sweep you away with the whispers of words like homecooking, gelato, smoked mozzarella, Limoncello, Prosecco and passion.

Numerous internet sites delve into the detail of the Amalfi Coast and the flood of suggestions can be quite overwhelming. So in standing true to the authentic simplicity with which Italian chefs seem to cook their organic ingredients; peruse your way through my tips for visiting this unforgettable gem.

The Amalfi Coast should be on everyone’s bucket list.

Where to Stay:

  • One of my most valuable travel learnings is the joy of booking.com. This simple accommodation search engine provides everything you need and for most B&B’s / Hotels, one only needs to pay the cost upon arrival.
  • With the above being said, the Amalfi Coast is not the cheapest destination. Therefore, plan carefully, save accordingly and do not simply pick the first hotel that boasts a sea view.
Majestic sea views along the coast.
Majestic sea views along the coast.
  • Rather than moving between the towns dotted along the coast – stay in one place for your trip. I crave travelling until I feel like a resident. Settling into one place can foster that feeling of homely familiarity and nothing can beat the locals beginning to greet you by your quickly attained nickname.
  • When staying in Positano, location is key. Too high up in the hills will defeat you daily with the number of staircases you will have to climb, and too close to the sea might be ever so slightly tainted by the growing bustle of tourist mania.
Be prepared for plenty of exercise.
Be prepared for plenty of exercise.
  • We stayed at Casa Nilde – a beautifully clean and quaint bed and breakfast with three rooms facing a 180 degree view of the coast. Each morning, breakfast is laid out in the small kitchen and once you have chosen between the continental selection of pastries and yoghurt, you whisk it back to your room to enjoy upon your balcony (Casa Nilde ± £135 per room).

How to get about:

  • Walking, climbing, more walking, more climbing – stretching it out!
  • In Positano, the cobbled streets and delicately painted colourful houses are set into the hills – creeping higher and higher. As a result, getting to and from the bottom requires calf and leg dedication to tackle the fleets of consecutive stairs. Grin and bear it! And always remember you will need to work up the appetite and then work off the indulgences.
  • There are so many towns to explore along the coast and one way to do this and definitely the cheapest, is the use of the SITA bus service. However, this wasn’t quite for me and my dwindling patience. Use the buses if you can stand the queues, motion sickness onslaught and inevitable pushing in of eager youths.
  • Alternatively, strive to become a local Amalfi coast inhabitant and hire a scooter. At the cost of only €60 for 24 hours and no deposit. This was the quickest, most exhilarating way to see the entire coastline.
Hiring a scooter is probably the easiest (and coolest) way to explore the area.
Hiring a scooter is probably the easiest (and coolest) way to explore the area.
  • Once you’ve scooted – trade in the road for the sea. Hire a 40 horsepower fishing boat – and yes they let you do this with only proof of your identify and a quick five minute instruction. Head down to the Spiaggia Grande (Main Beach) and source it out at one of the many tents advertising water transport.

What to do:

  • It became simple. In six days, we explored the entire coast line and left nothing of regret.
  • Spend a day getting to know Positano. Walk around the streets and eye out the things you might like to see, taste and do.
  • Take the boat you’ve rented and potter along the coastline; dipping into the coves along the way. Be sure to anchor at a beach of one of the small fishing villages. You may even find the genial Luciano who runs a slightly dilapidated restaurant on the pebbled beach of Furore. Nevertheless, he humoured himself at my embarrassment in desperately asking for a coca-cola in my sea ridden costume while our boat lapped in the shore.
Explore the coast by boat.
Explore the coast by boat.
  • Make sure you identify the Da Adolfo boat and their times of collection from the Positano pier. I’ll tell you more below – but plan this into your day and cater for at least five hours here.
  • Spend half a day in Ravello walking through the romantic tranquillity of the high top village. This is the place to marvel at the beauty of architectural grandiosity and gardening delight at Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo.
Enjoy a stroll through the beautiful gardens.
Enjoy a stroll through the beautiful gardens.
  • Take the ferry from Positano to Capri and before getting overwhelmed by the flood of tourists, avoid the queues at the bus stop and take a taxi to Anacapri. Originally not planning to take a taxi, it was the length of the queue at the bus stop that ignited mutual panic in our eyes and another couple. Before you knew it, and I would advise the same, we car pooled! Cheaper, quicker and travel stories shared.
  • Stroll around Anacapri as it is far quieter than the regions below. Take the chair lift up to the top of Monte Solaro – the world below you awaits and the view is exasperatingly beautiful.
Amazing treetop views at Monte Solaro.
Amazing treetop views at Monte Solaro.
  • Use the scooter to wind your way along the coast and pass through the villages of Praiano, Furore, Conca dei Marini, Amalfi, Atrani, Minori, Maiori etc.
  • Stop along the way to quench your thirst, sample a gelato and express every bit of excitement in the word ‘Ciao’ (it seems to mean everything!)
  • Along the way, whether it be the first stop or the last, pop into Il San Pietro – a luxurious colonial style hotel dominating an entire hillside facing Positano. If you feel slightly overwhelmed by the ornate decorations of the lobby (as we did), take the lift down to the beach and settle into their private beach bar and sip on a margarita – only one as it’s hugely overpriced!

Where and what to eat (Now this is the best part!):

Basing ourselves in Positano, we managed to discover the best of the best – keeping it local and within budget. Although Michelin star restaurants are all over, we decided to save the extra Euro’s for our favourite locals and their recognition of our preferred tastes and habits. TOP TIPS: Order Prosecco, marvel at your enjoyment of the continual consumption of the Italian green olives (a staple snack serving); and take note that what is described in the menu is exactly what is presented before you – with no added accompaniment. If you would like something more than the core ingredient, remember to have a look at the sides offered and order this alongside your dish.

  • Positano:
    Caffe Positano  ‘Best fillet!’

While ordering a bottle of Prosecco and snacking on the moreish breadsticks and freshly baked baguettes, start off with the smoked mozzarella in lemon leaves. This dish became a quick favourite of mine and a regular order at any restaurant. Porcini mushrooms seem to be their specialty – so for the mains and meat lovers, go for the fillet with porcini mushrooms and if you are craving the perfect homemade al dente pasta – order the Linguine with porcini mushrooms.

  • La Zargara Garden Bar  ‘Romantic Tranquillity with a glass of chardonnay’

A restaurant surrounded by patisserie deserts and pastries, delicatessen offerings and an outside terrace covered in lemon and olive trees sets the perfect late afternoon setting. Sipping on a glass of chardonnay, try the homemade melanzane to give into your ever increasing Italian cravings. Savour a slice of their Torta Zagara – an indulgent cake with chocolate and candied orange or give into more gluttony and sweeten the tooth with their variety of profiteroles. Take note: The longer you stay, continue to order and enjoy their food; the more snacks and free samples they bring.

  • La Tagliata  ‘Exceptional view and a real Italian kitchen

After making a reservation, you will be collected from your hotel and driven up the long and winding road into the hills of Montepertuso Positano. La Tagliata and its three terraces open up the most breath-taking view before you. You are seated and greeted by the family head chef while a set menu of endless organic Italian meals and local wine is served – course by course. Prepare to feast in multiple stages and feel as though you have been transported into a family education of ‘Mama’s authentic Italian meals’.

  • Mediterraneo  ‘Engaging staff and entertaining musical street side banter’

If you want to sit on the pavement, look out at the sea and all of a sudden have a five man Italian band serenade you with classic songs (all the while selling new dvds) – this is the place to go. The staff are happy to offer you their favourite wines at the price of the wine you selected and just as you bite into your starter of a ricotta stuffed courgette flower, strums of guitars reign through the air. Delving into a need for Positano’s highly advertised wealth of seafood, this is the place to devour their spread of perfectly grilled prawns as a main course.

  • l Fornillo ‘Perfect pizzas with a no heart attack bill’.

Set slightly higher up the road, this pizza restaurant marries your idea of organic ingredients and Italian pizza simplicity (homemade base and a limitation in their toppings i.e. never over-flow your pizza base).

No trip to Italy is complete without the perfect pizza.
No trip to Italy is complete without the perfect pizza.
  • Da Adolfo The idyllic combination of sun, sea and seafood. So nice it had to be done twice!’

Probably the best experience of being in Positano! Wait at the Positano pier and look out for the boat with the big red fish (free collections start from 11:00-13:00 and returns run from 16:00-18:00). A scantily clad Italian who always seems to hitch one side of his boardshorts high up into his hips will take you to and from Da Adolfo. This family run ‘shack like’ seafood restaurant rests in a private cove with sun loungers and a menu changing daily based on the catch of the day. To be safe – make a reservation and get yourself on the boat at about midday. Arrive and marvel at the waiters who run up and down the stairs between the chef’s mad shouts and the hot stone pebbled floor. Bread is never ending and the house wine is cheap, delicious and good for the soul.

IMG_2535
I strongly recommend Da Adolfo’s incredible mussels!

There is nothing on the menu I would not recommend. Try everything! From marinated sardines, to a seafood salad of octopus and local fish, to the fish barbeque which is a chargrilled and perfectly moist whole fish served before you to pick and portion out as you desire. However, make sure that out of all the options, you do not forget their specialty of mussels in a garlic and tomato sauce. They are simply too good to be true – and we ordered them twice. When you have eaten all you can, settle onto a lounger, have a swim in the crystal clear water and find yourself going to and from the bar to quench your thirst.

Amalfi City:

  • Bar Flavio Gioia – ‘Best Gelato

Located in front of the ferry and bus stops as you arrive, take yourself to Bar Flavio and sample their ice cream flavours.
The true creaminess and authenticity of their coffee and pistachio flavour was beyond words.

Bar Flavio has the best Gelato in town.
Bar Flavio Gioia has the best Gelato in town.

Ravello:

Marvel at the rich and famous as you walk into this luxury boutique hotel, out onto the terrace and sample one of their carefully manicured martini cocktails. Free snacks too!

Martini heaven!
Martini heaven!

Atrani:

  • Le Arcate  ‘True local cuisine and homemade pasta

Out of the hustle and bustle of the crowds and traffic, make your way down to the edge of the Atrani beach and set yourself up at Le Arcate. Perfectly cooked pastas make any choice hard. However, I would recommend the macaroni with mussels – the sensation of simple flavours and passionate cooking were no match for any other dish.

I rest my case.

In striving to be simple and to the point, it seems the Amalfi Coast has too much to describe. However, with what to do, how to do it and especially where to eat, this destination is an exceptional sample of holiday perfection and one I will definitely be going back to. My last bit of advice is simple – always remember to round off any meal with a taste of the restaurant’s Limoncello. It would be sacrilege not to try.

Tags: