The sightseeing attractions of

Images by Phensri Rutledge

The sightseeing attractions of downtown Los Angeles

I quickly found out why downtown LA is now a visitor hotspot.

The sightseeing attractions of

Images by Phensri Rutledge

When I told my friends I was going to Los Angeles and planned to explore the downtown area, there was either silence or, “What about Hollywood, Disneyland, Knotts Berry Farm and Universal Studios?”

I acknowledge the appeal of all these attractions but I was intrigued to find out why downtown Los Angeles, which was almost a no-go area for some people fifteen years ago, was now considered a visitor hotspot.

Today, cranes dot the skyline as downtown undergoes the biggest development boom since the Roaring Twenties, when the area was then the centre of the entertainment industry. New apartments, hotel rooms and retail and office space are steadily coming online while existing structures are being recycled, and the city’s public transport system is being expanded and improved.

Organisations such as the Warner Music Group, Spotify, and the Arizona State University have all recently taken up space in older recycled buildings in the area. More than 7,000 residential units are under construction with many more to come.

If you want to explore this area, I suggest you start at historic Union Station. Many people believe Los Angeles has no public transit system. They are wrong and a visit to Union Station at peak time quickly puts you right. Metro trains, buses and commuter trains disgorge thousands of passengers, making the beautiful waiting areas with custom seating, inlaid floors, dark beamed ceilings and attractive tilework almost difficult to see. Don’t miss the garden courtyards and fountains which help make this place so attractive.

Directly across the road is the El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic Area. This centres on Olvera Street where you find the Avila Adobe, the oldest remaining structure in Los Angeles and a Mexican marketplace that provides a cleaned-up version of old Mexico. There are several museums here including the LA Plaza de Cultural y Artes museum, the Chinese American Museum, and the Old Plaza Fire House Museum.

Now head to the 32-storey Los Angeles City Hall and go up to the observation deck for some stunning views. The first thing you will notice is Grand Park opened in 2012 which spreads over three city blocks. It contains small botanic gardens featuring plants from around the world, grassed areas and a large fountain with a wading area that is popular on hot days. At night, a light show draws admirers and photographers.

Across the park is the Cathedral of our Lady of the Angles. This modern structure, with its art pieces, grand bronze doors, courtyard windows and tapestry murals, is well worth visiting.

Grand Avenue is home to a marvellous collection of music venues and museums somewhat reminiscent of Melbourne, Australia. They deserve an article on their own so I will oblige at a later date.

Further along the street you find the cute little Angeles Flight Railway. It is an iconic landmark that has been in operation since 1901. It’s a short steep ride lasting only a couple of minutes but it is fun and it saves many stairs. Get a return ticket if you want a souvenir.

On top of the tallest building in the city you find OUE Skyspace LA. This observation area provides great views but the highlight is a glass sliding board on the outside of the building from the 70th to the 69th floor. If you can keep your eyes open, the view is outstanding!

A more down to earth experience is obtained across the road at the LA Library. It may not look stunning from the outside but there is a cool atrium with lots of unique art and a marvellous rotunda that will really impress.

Pershing Square is a popular nearby park. It’s good for a quiet break from the city and there is a playground for the kids. During Christmas, they have an ice rink here.

One of my favourite discoveries was The Last Bookshop which has become an international tourist draw. They buy and sell second-hand books and records in a space with quirky art and wide-ranging literature. Upstairs houses art studios and galleries, themed art installations, a dollar room with more than 100,000 books for $1, and a labyrinth of more and more books.

Running a close second to the bookstore is the Grand Central Market which has operated at this indoor site since 1917. In recent years it has gone up-market with a great selection of gourmet goods. It opens every day and on Thursday to Saturday for dinner.

We explored the nearby super-cool Bradbury Building which was featured in the movie Blade Runner. You can’t ride the old elevators but you can walk up some of the marble staircases with their intricate wrought iron. Fortunately, photography is encouraged.

After all this exploring it’s good to see that there are many restaurants and bars for refreshments. For novel experiences I recommend the Nickel Diner with furnishings from the 1950s, Cliftons with an interior complete with trees and stuffed animals plus a Polynesian theme in the Tiki Bar, and classy Villains Tavern a lively bar with art nouveau décor and cocktails.

Downtown L.A. is a good place to stay. There are many accommodation choices from traditional to modern, boutique to massive. You can pay US$750 a night at the Marriot Los Angeles, the Westin Bonaventure or the Ritz-Carlton, or as low as US$20 a night in a hostel.

www.LenRutledge.com

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