Bergen

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Rediscovering Bergen: The city with ‘its feet in the sea and its head in the sky’

Bergen still has its heart and soul in the right places and its beauty is happily shared with visitors.

Bergen

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Nearly forty years ago I fell in love. Not with another person but with a city. I was wandering around Europe and had arrived in Bergen, Norway. Something captivated me and since then I have been saying that Bergen is my favourite small city in the world.

I resisted returning to Bergen for many years. I guess I was frightened that my memories would be shattered and that Bergen would no longer be special. I should not have worried. When I finally returned I still loved the place and each subsequent visit has reinforced that.

Then last year my wife and I spent some wonderful days in Bergen being tourists again. It may have changed but it has not lost its magic.

Ever since Viking King Olav Kyrre sailed into the harbour and founded the city in 1070, Bergen has attracted people from all parts of the world. The importance of Bergen by the 13th century is shown by the Hansas – the German Medieval guild of merchants – opening one of their four European offices here. Much from that time has gone but reminders of past centuries remain today. The area has become a symbol of Bergen’s cultural heritage.

Bergen

Bergen grew up around its colourful harbour. It is still the heart and soul of the city. Forty years ago it was filled with fishing boats and the fish market on the quay was an exciting, thriving, smelly place just bursting with atmosphere.

Now the harbour is thronged with expensive pleasure craft from around the world and the market at Torget has just a few stalls selling seafood but many more with fruit, vegetables, handicrafts, clothing and souvenirs. It’s different but still spectacular.

Bergen’s setting – amidst seven hills and sheltered by a series of straggling islands – is brilliant. You see it best from the top of the Fløibanen funicular railway which was built 100 years ago. The current modern glass funicular goes to the top of Mount Fløyen in about seven minutes.

Bergen floibanen SA

At the top you have wonderful views, a fine restaurant, a cafe, souvenir shop, a children’s play area and numerous footpaths into the surrounding mountains. If you walk back down the hill you will see some of the charming small wooden houses that are so much part of the city.

Apart from the harbour and funicular, Bryggen is my favourite attraction in downtown Bergen. The old Hanseatic wharf is architecturally unique and is included on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage of history and culture. We walk the narrow passages separating 300 year-old timber and stone buildings with their overhanging eaves.

The Hanseatisk Museum is well worth a visit. This is a well-preserved, early 18th-century merchants dwelling, decked out in late Hansa style. There is some fine furniture and wonderful painted woodwork but it is the warren-like layout of the place that really impresses.

There are four museums in the central city along Lille Lungegårdsvann Lake. All four offer extensive exhibitions of art and design, craft and antique artefacts and should not be missed.

Highlights are the outstanding masterpieces by Edvard Munch, magnificent Greek and Russian icons, Dutch paintings from the 1700s, and modern works by Paul Klee, Picasso and others. In total, this is one of the most impressive collections of paintings in Norway.

As a contrast, the Bergen Aquarium on the Nordnes Peninsula waterfront is said to have the largest collection of marine life in Europe, rivalling the aquarium in Genoa.

Outside of the city centre there are further attractions. A cable car runs to the top of 642-metre Mount Ulriken. There are walks and a cafe at the top and on a fine day the views over Bergen are spectacular.

The Fantoft stave church has much appeal for me. The church was moved to Bergen from a tiny rural village in the 1880s and was revamped and restored by the private owner. Tragically, it was burnt to the ground in 1992 but extraordinarily, the present owner had a replica built and it stands today amongst beech and pine trees for all to see.

Bergen church

A little further out is Troldhaugen, the home of composer Edvard Grieg. In my younger days, classical music was of little importance. Grieg’s house was my conversion site. After seeing the composer’s desk and piano and gazing out on the magnificent scenery he saw while composing, I immediately understood his dramatic music and have been a fan ever since. To me this is one of the most romantic spots in Norway.

There is much more to Bergen than this and one of the joys of the city is wandering around just taking in the sights and stumbling across the unexpected.

If you go

British Airways flies direct to Bergen from Heathrow twice a day while Norwegian flies from Gatwick.

The Bergen Card is worth considering if you plan on being active in the city. With this, you can enjoy free bus and light-rail travel within the city limits, free admittance to most museums, and discounts on a variety of cultural and sightseeing attractions, restaurants and parking.

This is an edited extract from “Experience Norway 2015” by Len Rutledge available as an e-book.
Photos by Phensri Rutledge

Top photo by Shutterstock.com

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